dimanche 25 mai 2008

fans of cannes

today at dinner martine was excited that a french film (entre les murs) won the palme d'or (golden palm) at cannes.

rosa, her 11-year-old daughter: do they get money?
martine: no, they don't get money.
rosa: well that's stupid to have an award where you don't get money.
martine: it's like getting money because they get worldwide recognition, so everyone will come see their movie!
rosa: i'd still sell the palm.

Entre les murs (='Between the Walls') trailer

vendredi 23 mai 2008

parc de bercy


ugh, i am really tired but i can't sleep at all.
so here are some pics of the parc de bercy
that's cx at the vanishing point

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les halles


it's nice that chenxin is here. i was glad to find out paris reminds her of mexico city, too. (adrienne would say we're both nuts.) this is our reflection in part of the forum des halles, whose weird 70s architecture would totally be at home in la zona rosa.

anu tells me they're going to redesign/cover up the labyrinthine park next door so poor kids from the banlieues (suburbs) won't be able to hang out there at night. which is sad, because yeah drunk kids make the place unpleasant after dark, but during the day the influx of peeps from outside the city make les halles livelier and more colorful than the rest of (lovely but uptight) paris. (full disclosure: i go to school in a banlieue, in another specimen of weird 70s architecture that i almost equally adore.)
here i am in the park, playing with leaves.

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samedi 10 mai 2008

little slice of life




3 papers due this week
3 papers due this week
agh
agh
agh

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lundi 5 mai 2008

poor evie

i know this has nothing to do with rome but
every time you watch this trailer, god kills an anglo-catholic kitten
and evelyn waugh does a backflip in his grave.

dimanche 4 mai 2008

ostia antica


ruins of an old seaport an hour away from rome by train. "as good as pompeii"
fun to take pictures in, but my desire for ruins could have probably been satisfied by the baths of caracalla alone (i stumbled upon them that afternoon, nursing a severe sunburn...)
i admit to kind of stalking this little girl in pink

she kept shouting into random holes as if she had friends down there she needed to wake up and take to breakfast.

so i was really surprised when her dad actually popped out of one of the holes. (it turned out to be the neat passageway pictured here.)

little kids always have the last laugh.

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roman holiday


after spending the afternoon and night of april 29th in florence alone (post on that later), i hopped an early train for rome and got there around noon.
i decided i had to do ASMUCHASPOSSIBLE since everything would be closed the next day, may 1st, day of the ascension. i visited the palatine (above), roman forums, and capitoline museums all before 5 pm.
which was kind of silly, because the palatine would have been a great place to hang out for a while and climb rocks.

the next morning, i really wasn't into dealing with roman traffic, so i took a walk along the tiber. i think this man was taking a break from swimming in his tightie whities.

i ended up at the castello san angelo, one of the few things open. they wouldn't let me take pictures of the pretty frescoes. so i went to st. peter's, where the line was really short for some reason. my pictures won't do it justice... i was quite moved by it, in a way that's difficult to express in a photo blog... except to say, it didn't really have to do with religion.

but anyway. after drinking a cheap, foul beer on the steps of the piazza, i hopped the metro to go to a music festival i'd heard about at the hostel. turns out that about everyone between the ages of 16 and 25 in rome had the same idea as i had (the picture from yesterday's post is from the station where i got on). the metro wasn't even stopping at the piazza where the concert was, or even at the next stop, because the crowds were so bad. so this is the view from two stops away, where i finally got off (concert is behind that arch waaaay down the street):

so yeah. lotsa kids. i like crowds, and there was some awesome people watching. even the music wasn't bad (that kind of growly vaguely industrial sound that all euro pop that isn't swedish or french seems to have). but i was really not feeling it that day. when i kept getting nearly pulled into the mosh pit, i decided to leave.
so i bought myself a cheerily colored pastry

and went to watch the RIBBON DANCERS

and pretty much called it a day.

it says something that this was pretty much the most eventful day i spent in the city. (pics of ostia antica, which i visited the next day, to come...) i'm really glad i went, because i saw so many new+beautiful things, and didn't just sleep and bum around in my pjs like i would have in paris. but my social interactions were pretty much limited to the free hostel-bonding pasta dinner at 7 each night; the city was crowded, and dirty, and overwhelming; and not speaking the language, or being with a person who did, made me feel really insecure.

especially when it became apparent how often we tourists were getting scammed. in florence we went to one cafe for breakfast two days in a row. i bought the same exact thing both times, and the second time they entered fake prices so that the bill was 4 euros more. and i couldn't do anything about it, either, since i didn't have the first receipt and prices weren't posted. and if they had been, i wouldn't have been able to read them.

another girl i met at the hostel got tricked by some guy posing as a police officer, who made her give him her credit card pin number and then stole the card and withdrew the $800 remaining in her account, leaving her with about 10 euros cash to survive on the rest of her vacation. admittedly, she was really stupid to give him her pin, but what really struck me is that he had the balls to even *try* that scam. probably not just this once, either.

i mean, my family expected that kind of thing to happen when we were in mexico city, but it never did. and i think that's because half of us spoke fluent spanish, not because mexico city is safer for tourists than rome. speaking the language makes such a difference in how people treat you... i never really noticed it before.

inevitably i came back from the trip with a strong desire to pick up another romance language. (when? who has the time? don't you still need to learn japanese, nat?) but we'll see.

but being back in paris (a day early) has been *so pleasant*. it's warm and sunny and all the little kids are playing in their undies in the fountain of the public park. the guy behind the counter at mcdo's understood my lunch order. cars move in a sane and predictable manner.

it's funny how paris got to feel so quickly like *home.*

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